Jigsaws: The Curved-Cut Saw You'll Need for Worktop Cutouts and Flooring

Your kitchen fitter hasn't turned up for the worktop stage. The sink and hob are sitting in their boxes. The plumber is booked for Thursday. You need rectangular holes cut in a 38mm laminate worktop, with clean edges that won't chip, and you've never cut a worktop before. A jigsaw is the tool for this job, and with the right blade and technique it's straightforward. With the wrong blade or the wrong settings, you'll split the laminate surface and need a replacement worktop.

What it is and when you need one

A jigsaw is a handheld power saw with a short, narrow blade that moves rapidly up and down (like a sewing machine needle). You guide it along a line, and the blade cuts whatever's underneath. Unlike a circular saw, which only makes straight cuts, a jigsaw follows curves. That's its defining feature.

The blade is exposed only at the front, it's narrow enough to turn tight corners, and the saw is small and light enough to use one-handed if you need to. It's the least intimidating power saw you can buy, which is why it's often the first one a homeowner picks up.

On an extension project, two jobs demand a jigsaw. The first is cutting worktop holes for sinks and hobs during kitchen installation. These cutouts have rounded corners that a circular saw can't follow. The second is cutting laminate flooring planks around doorframes, pipes, and radiator valves, anywhere you need a shaped cut rather than a straight one.

Types and variants

Corded vs cordless

Corded jigsaws plug into a 230V socket and deliver consistent power until you unplug them. They're lighter (no battery), cheaper, and never run flat mid-cut. A decent corded jigsaw starts at £24-55.

Cordless jigsaws run on 18V lithium-ion batteries. They're convenient, no trailing cable to snag on worktop edges, but they cost more and the battery adds weight. A mid-range cordless body (without batteries) costs £110 – £220.

Blade systems: T-shank vs U-shank

Jigsaw blades come in two fitting types. T-shank blades have a tang shaped like the letter T that clicks into the saw's clamp mechanism. U-shank blades have a U-shaped notch and are an older design. T-shank is the modern standard. Every current jigsaw from Bosch, DeWalt, Makita, and Milwaukee uses T-shank, and the blade selection is vastly wider. Don't buy a jigsaw that only takes U-shank blades.

Orbital action (pendulum action)

This is the feature most beginners don't know about, and misunderstanding it is the single most common cause of chipped worktop cuts.

Standard jigsaw motion is straight up and down. Orbital action adds a small forward-swinging ellipse to that motion, so the blade pushes into the material on the upstroke and swings clear on the downstroke. It's controlled by a numbered dial (usually 0 to 3) on the side of the saw.

• 0 = no orbital action. Blade moves straight up and down. Use this for clean cuts in laminate, intricate curves, metal, and plastic.
• 1-2 = mild to moderate orbital. Faster cutting in solid timber, slightly rougher finish.
• 3 = aggressive orbital. Fastest cutting in thick softwood. Roughest finish.

The higher the orbital setting, the faster the blade clears material and the less friction builds up. But the blade also tears more aggressively at the surface. For worktop cutouts, set it to 0. Every experienced DIYer and forum community agrees on this.

How to use it properly

Choosing the right blade

The blade determines cut quality more than the jigsaw itself. Experienced DIYers on UK forums consistently report that a good blade in a cheap jigsaw outperforms a cheap blade in an expensive one.

For a kitchen extension, buy a 5-pack of T101BR reverse-tooth blades and you're covered for worktop cutouts and laminate flooring. The reverse-tooth design means the teeth point downward, so they enter the material from the top surface and push splinters down instead of tearing them up. That keeps the decorative face clean.

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Cutting a worktop sink or hob cutout

This is the job where technique matters most. Get it wrong and you're buying a new worktop.

Mark the cutout. Place the sink or hob template on the worktop (most sinks come with a cardboard template). If there's no template, turn the sink upside down, trace around it, then draw a second line 10mm inside that outline. The sink rim overlaps the edge, so the cutout needs to be smaller than the sink's outer dimensions. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the exact offset.

Apply masking tape. Run strips of masking tape over the entire cutout area, overlapping each strip. Then redraw your cut line on the tape. The tape does two things: it holds the laminate fibres together during cutting (reducing chipping), and it protects the worktop surface from scratches as the jigsaw's baseplate slides over it. On dark worktops, a pencil line on tape is far easier to see than a pencil line on the laminate.

Drill corner pilot holes. At each corner of the cutout, drill a hole using a 12mm or 16mm flat wood bit. The hole must be larger than the jigsaw blade width, and it must sit just inside the cut line (on the waste side). These holes give the blade somewhere to enter and turn at the corners.

Set up the jigsaw. Fit a T101BR reverse-tooth blade. Set orbital action to 0. Set speed to medium (not maximum). If your jigsaw has a splinter guard (a small plastic insert that fits into the baseplate around the blade slot), fit it now. They cost £3-5 and make a noticeable difference.

Cut three sides first. Insert the blade into a corner pilot hole. Start cutting along one side. Let the blade do the work. Don't push hard, just guide the saw steadily along the line. Cut three sides of the rectangle, leaving one side uncut. The cutout piece stays attached and supported by the remaining side.

Support the cutout and cut the final side. This is where worktops get damaged. As you cut the fourth side, the waste piece loses its support and drops. If it tears away before the cut is complete, it will rip a chunk of laminate off the visible edge. Have a helper hold the waste piece from below, or screw a short timber batten across the cutout (spanning the uncut side and one already-cut side) to keep it supported until the last millimetre. Then lift the waste out cleanly.

Seal the cut edges. Exposed chipboard or MDF core absorbs moisture fast. Within minutes of cutting, brush all raw edges with PVA glue, exterior wood varnish, or proprietary worktop sealant. When the sink or hob is fitted, run a bead of silicone sealant around the rim. For hob cutouts, use heat-resistant silicone.

Cutting laminate flooring

Laminate flooring needs shaped cuts around doorframes, pipe runs, and radiator valves. The technique is simpler than worktop cutting because the stakes are lower (a damaged plank can be replaced), but the same principles apply.

Use a T101BR reverse-tooth blade. Mark your cut on the face side of the plank. Cut with the face side up, since the reverse-tooth blade protects the top surface. For straight crosscuts, a mitre saw is faster, but the jigsaw handles every curved or notched cut the mitre saw can't.

Straight cuts with a jigsaw

Jigsaws can make straight cuts, but they're not as good at it as a circular saw. The narrow blade tends to wander, especially in thick material. If you need to make straight cuts regularly, a clamped straight-edge solves this. Clamp a length of straight timber or a spirit level to the workpiece, parallel to your cut line, with the offset set to match the distance from the blade to the edge of the baseplate. The baseplate rides against the straight-edge and the blade follows.

For long straight cuts in sheet materials (plywood, MDF), a circular saw with a guide rail is the better tool. The jigsaw's strength is curves, cutouts, and short shaped cuts.

How to check it's working properly

Before each use, three checks.

Blade clamp. Insert a blade and give it a firm tug. It shouldn't move. T-shank blades should click positively into the clamp. If the blade wobbles or pulls out under hand pressure, the clamp mechanism is worn. On budget jigsaws this happens faster than on mid-range models.

Baseplate angle. Hold a small square (a combination square or speed square) against the blade and check the blade is perpendicular to the baseplate. If it's off, the saw will cut at an angle through the material, producing a bevelled edge. Most jigsaws have a bevel adjustment mechanism, and it can drift over time or get bumped. Reset it to 0 degrees.

Blade condition. A dull blade doesn't cut cleanly, it tears. If you're pushing harder than usual, or the cut surface is rough and fibrous instead of clean, the blade is done. Jigsaw blades are consumables. Replace them. At £6-10 for a 5-pack, there's no reason to persist with a dull blade.

What to buy

Three tiers. Prices from UK retailers at time of writing.

Budget: £24 – £55 (corded)

Titan TTB867JSW 600W at Screwfix. The entry point. It cuts, it has variable speed and orbital action, and it takes T-shank blades. The baseplate is lightweight and the blade clamp isn't as positive as pricier models, but for cutting a couple of worktops and some flooring, it does the job. Swap out the stock blade for a Bosch T101BR immediately.

Makita M4301 450W at Screwfix. Lower wattage but better build quality than the budget store brands. Makita's entry-level "MT" series bridges the gap between disposable and durable. 450W is enough for laminate worktops and flooring.

Mid-range: £70 – £100 (corded)

Bosch PST 800 PEL 530W. This is the jigsaw to buy for a kitchen extension. 530W motor, 4-stage orbital action, SDS (tool-free) blade change, steel baseplate, CutControl line guide, and it ships with an anti-splinter guard in the box. Maximum cutting depth of 80mm in wood, which clears any standard worktop with room to spare. Wickes stocks it, and PriceSpy shows the best UK price typically around the mid-range.

Bosch's PST (green) range is designed for home use. It won't survive daily trade abuse, but for a homeowner who'll use it twenty times over a six-month extension project, it's the sweet spot between price and capability. The anti-splinter guard alone saves frustration on laminate cuts.

Makita 4329/2 450W. A quieter, smoother alternative. 4-stage orbital action, variable speed 500-3,100 spm. The build quality is excellent for the price. No anti-splinter guard included, so budget separately for one if you're cutting laminate.

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Pro/cordless: £110 – £220 (bare unit)

DeWalt DCS334N-XJ 18V brushless. 3,200 spm, 135mm maximum wood cutting depth, 4-position pendulum action, aluminium baseplate, tool-free blade change, twin LED lights. This is the trade-standard cordless jigsaw. Build quality is a clear step up: all-metal gearbox, tight tolerances, minimal vibration. Bare unit only, needs DeWalt XR 18V batteries.

Makita DJV182Z 18V LXT brushless. Similar specs: 3,500 spm max, 135mm wood depth, 3-stage orbital, tool-free blade change. Slightly lighter at 2.0kg. If you're already on the Makita LXT battery platform, this is the natural choice.

Both the DeWalt and Makita perform identically for homeowner worktop cutting. The choice comes down to which battery system you already own. Buying either as your first cordless tool (with batteries and charger) pushes the total above the practical value threshold for occasional use.

Alternatives

A circular saw is better for long straight cuts, especially trimming worktops to length or cutting sheet materials to size. But it can't cut curves or internal cutouts. For a kitchen extension, many homeowners end up needing both: the circular saw for straight cuts and the jigsaw for shaped ones.

An oscillating multi-tool can make some of the same cuts as a jigsaw, particularly trimming doorframe architraves and cutting notches in flooring. It's slower and less suited to long cuts, but useful in tight spaces where a jigsaw's baseplate won't fit flat against the surface.

A reciprocating saw is designed for demolition and rough cutting, not the clean precision work a jigsaw handles. Don't use one for worktop cutouts.

Where you'll need this

• Kitchen installation - cutting worktop holes for sinks and hobs, where the jigsaw follows curved corners that a circular saw can't reach

These tasks appear across all stages of any extension or renovation project. Laminate flooring installation on any project type requires shaped cuts around doorframes and obstacles. Anytime you need to cut a hole or a curve in timber or sheet materials, reach for the jigsaw first.

Safety

Jigsaws are one of the safer power saws. The blade is short, narrow, and largely enclosed by the baseplate, so accidental contact is less likely than with a circular saw. That said, the blade is moving at up to 3,500 strokes per minute and it will cut skin instantly.

Eye protection. Wear safety glasses. Every cut. Jigsaw blades throw fine chips upward, directly toward your face.

Dust protection. MDF dust is a respiratory sensitiser that can trigger occupational asthma. HSE workplace exposure limits for hardwood and MDF dust are 3 mg/m3. That limit applies to employers, not DIY homeowners, but the health risk is identical. Wear an FFP2 dust mask when cutting MDF. For laminate worktops (which have a chipboard or MDF core), an FFP2 mask is also sensible. Step up to FFP3 if you're cutting large quantities indoors.

Hearing protection. Jigsaws aren't as loud as circular saws, but sustained cutting in an enclosed kitchen space is louder than you'd expect. Ear defenders are good practice for any session longer than a few minutes.