Impact Drivers: What They Do, How to Use One, and What to Buy
The UK guide to impact drivers. How the impact mechanism works, why you need impact-rated bits, and what to buy from £44 bare to £200+ with batteries.
You're 200 screws into boarding a loft. Your wrist aches, the combi drill keeps stalling on the longer screws, and the clutch slips every third one. You're adjusting torque settings constantly, stopping to rest your forearm, and still only halfway through. An impact driver would have finished the job in half the time with a fraction of the effort, because it's designed specifically for this: driving screws, fast, without punishing your arm.
What it is and when you need one
An impact driver is a cordless tool built for one thing: driving screws and bolts. It looks like a compact drill, but it doesn't have a standard chuck. Instead it has a 1/4-inch hex collet (a spring-loaded socket that accepts hex-shaped bits) at the front. No keyless chuck, no clutch ring, no hammer drill setting. It does one job and does it better than anything else.
The key difference from a combi drill is the mechanism inside. Under light load, an impact driver spins continuously like any drill driver. But when the screw gets tight and resistance builds, a hammer-and-anvil mechanism kicks in. A spring-loaded hammer cams off the anvil and strikes it with sharp rotational blows, roughly 3,000 to 4,000 times per minute. Each impact delivers a burst of torque without transferring the reaction force back to your wrist. That's the whole point. A combi drill pushes 50-60Nm of torque through your hand and forearm. An impact driver delivers 130-200Nm and your wrist barely feels it.
The result: longer screws go in faster, your arm lasts longer, and you're not constantly fiddling with clutch settings. For any task involving more than a dozen screws (decking, loft boarding, stud walls, cabinet fixing, fence panels), the impact driver is the right tool.
An impact driver is not a drill. It won't bore holes into masonry, it can't accept round-shank drill bits, and it has no hammer action for hard materials. If you need to drill holes, you need a combi drill alongside it. The two tools complement each other; neither replaces the other.
Types and variants
Impact drivers vary by motor type, speed control, and torque output. Those three things determine how much you should spend.
| Feature | Entry-level | Mid-range brushless | Pro brushless |
|---|---|---|---|
| Motor | Brushed | Brushless | Brushless |
| Torque | 100-130Nm | 150-180Nm | 200-270Nm |
| Speed modes | Single speed (trigger only) | 2-3 speed settings | 3-4 speed settings + precision mode |
| Weight (bare) | 1.4-1.6kg | 1.1-1.5kg | 1.0-1.2kg |
| Battery life | Shorter (motor draws more current) | 20-30% longer than brushed | Best efficiency, longest run time |
| Typical price (bare) | £44-75 | £80-140 | £130-220 |
| Buy if... | Occasional DIY, under 50 screws per session | Regular DIY, extensions, kitchens, decking | Daily trade use or heavy structural work |
Brushed vs brushless matters more than most buyers realise. A brushed motor uses carbon brushes that physically contact the spinning rotor. They wear down over time, generate heat, and waste energy. A reviewer of the brushed Makita DTD152 noted: "Watch where you place your hand when you use it. If you cut off circulation to the airflow your brushes will burn out." Brushless motors eliminate the brushes entirely, run cooler, last longer, and deliver more power per amp of battery charge. For occasional DIY, brushed is fine. For anything more, pay the extra for brushless.
Speed modes are the feature that separates a frustrating experience from a good one. A single-speed impact driver has a trigger and nothing else. Squeeze gently for slow, squeeze hard for fast. That sounds simple, but the trigger response is aggressive. Users consistently report that single-speed models are "ridiculously fast with very little control" for small or delicate screws. A 3-speed model lets you lock the tool to a low-power mode for cabinet hinges and small fixings, medium for general work, and full power for long structural screws. If your budget stretches to a multi-speed brushless model, it's worth every pound.
How to use it properly
Loading bits
Pull back the collet sleeve (the ring at the front of the chuck), push the hex-shank bit in until it clicks, and release. That's it. To remove, pull the sleeve back and the bit slides out. No tightening, no chuck key, no adjustment. This is one reason impact drivers are faster to work with: bit changes take two seconds.
Only 1/4-inch hex shank accessories fit. That includes screwdriver bits (all drive types), hex-shank drill bits for timber (not recommended for precision work), magnetic nut setters, socket adapters, and countersink bits with hex shanks. Standard round-shank drill bits, SDS bits, and hole saw arbors won't fit. Don't force them.
The most important thing: use impact-rated bits
This single point is the difference between loving and hating an impact driver. Standard screwdriver bits are hardened for continuous rotation in a combi drill. An impact driver delivers repeated shock loads, thousands of sharp strikes per minute. Standard bits fatigue rapidly under this, snapping, rounding off, and camming out of screw heads. The result: stripped screws, broken bits, and the impression that the tool is rubbish.
Impact-rated bits have a torsion zone (usually visible as a darker, slightly narrower section behind the tip) that flexes under each impact to absorb shock. They last dramatically longer and maintain engagement with the screw head. The brands to look for: Makita Impact Black, Milwaukee Shockwave, DeWalt FlexTorq, Bosch Impact. A set of 30-50 impact-rated bits costs £10 – £20 and transforms the experience.
Using standard (non-impact) screwdriver bits in an impact driver is the single most common mistake new users make. If your bits keep snapping or stripping screw heads, check the bits before blaming the tool. Impact-rated bits have a visible torsion zone and are specifically labelled for impact use.
Driving screws
Hold the tool firmly with one hand (two hands for long structural screws). Place the bit in the screw head, press the trigger gently to start the screw, then squeeze harder as it bites. The tool does the work. Don't push hard into the screw; the impact mechanism generates its own forward force. Pushing too hard actually reduces the hammer's ability to operate.
On a multi-speed model, start with the lowest speed setting until you've developed trigger control. The jump from a combi drill's gentle clutch-controlled output to an impact driver's raw torque catches people off guard.
Pre-drilling for hardwood
The impact mechanism can snap screws when driving into dense materials like oak, iroko, or thick hardwood without a pilot hole. Stainless steel screws are particularly vulnerable because the steel is more brittle. Pre-drill a pilot hole using your combi drill first, then switch to the impact driver to drive the screw home. This two-tool workflow is exactly why tradespeople carry both.
For softwood (pine, spruce, standard construction timber), you rarely need to pre-drill with modern wood screws. The impact driver will drive 75mm screws straight into softwood studs without hesitation. Pre-drilling is for hardwood and dense materials, or when working close to the edge of a board where splitting is a risk.
What the torque numbers mean
Manufacturer torque ratings (measured in Newton-metres, Nm) tell you how much rotational force the tool delivers. Higher isn't always better, because control matters more than brute force for most DIY work. Here's what the numbers mean in practice:
- 100-130Nm handles small to medium wood screws (up to 65mm), flat-pack assembly, decking screws into softwood, and M4-M5 machine screws. Enough for most homeowner tasks.
- 150-180Nm drives 75-100mm structural screws, worktop batten fixings, and M5-M8 bolts. This is the sweet spot for extension and renovation work where you'll encounter cabinet fixing, stud wall construction, and heavy brackets.
- 200Nm+ is trade territory. Coach bolts, M8-M16 fixings, 150mm screws into hardwood joists. You won't need this unless you're doing regular heavy structural or outdoor timber work.
For most homeowners doing an extension, kitchen, or renovation, 130-180Nm covers everything you'll encounter.
How to check quality before buying
Pick the tool up in a shop if you can. Three things to check:
Weight and balance. A good impact driver feels compact and balanced, not front-heavy. Brushless models are noticeably lighter than brushed equivalents. The Makita DTD172 weighs 1.1kg bare; a budget brushed model runs 1.5-1.6kg. That difference matters after 100 screws.
Collet action. Pull back the bit sleeve and release it. It should snap back crisply. Insert a bit: it should click positively and not wobble. Loose bit retention means the bit will slip under impact load.
Trigger response. Squeeze the trigger slowly. On a quality tool, speed builds smoothly from the first millimetre of travel. On cheap tools, there's a dead zone followed by a sudden jump to full speed. That jump makes fine work impossible.
What to buy
Budget: £44 – £75 (bare tool or basic kit)
The Wickes own-brand 18V impact driver at £44 bare or £70 with a 1.5Ah battery and charger is the cheapest entry from a major UK retailer. It'll drive screws into softwood all day. No speed control beyond the trigger, brushed motor, adequate for occasional projects.
The Bosch Advanced Impact Drive 18 (green/DIY range) at around £75 bare from Wickes offers 130Nm and weighs just 1kg. Compact, light, and enough torque for standard DIY. Compatible with Bosch's 18V Power for All battery system (garden tools, sanders, jigsaws). A solid choice if you're already using Bosch green tools, but remember: Bosch green batteries don't fit Bosch blue (professional) tools.
The Einhell PXC 18V brushless at £90 – £100 with a 4.0Ah battery is strong value, delivering 180Nm with a brushless motor at a budget price.
Mid-range: £80 – £140 (bare tool)
This is where the quality jump happens. The DeWalt DCF887N at £80 bare from Screwfix is arguably the best value impact driver on the UK market. Brushless motor, 3-speed electronic switch, 205Nm torque, and the tool that comes up most frequently in forum recommendations. It's a professional-grade tool at a mid-range bare price. You'll need DeWalt 18V XR batteries separately (or buy it in a kit).
The Makita DTD153Z at £115 – £139 bare is the brushless entry point in Makita's 18V LXT range. 170Nm, 3,400rpm, three-speed. Lighter and more refined than the older brushed DTD152. If you're already in the Makita system, this is the natural choice.
The Milwaukee M18 FID3-0 (FUEL Gen 4) at £100 bare from Toolstation is Milwaukee's latest. FUEL brushless motor, compact body, and part of the M18 platform that professionals rate highly.
Professional: £130 – £220+ (bare tool)
The Makita DTD172Z at £220 bare is the flagship. 180Nm, 4-speed, 1.1kg, and a precision fastening mode for delicate work. Beautiful engineering, but more than any homeowner needs.
The Milwaukee M18 FID3-502X with two 5.0Ah batteries and charger runs £290 from Screwfix. That's a complete professional kit, overkill for DIY but relevant if you're buying into the M18 platform for multiple tools.
| Model | Motor | Torque | Speeds | Weight | Price (bare) | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wickes 18V | Brushed | N/A | 1 | ~1.5kg | £44 | Cheapest entry point for occasional use |
| Bosch Advanced Impact 18 | Brushless | 130Nm | 1 | 1.0kg | £75 | Lightest option, Bosch green range |
| Einhell PXC Brushless | Brushless | 180Nm | 1 | ~1.3kg | £90 (with 4Ah battery) | Best budget brushless kit |
| DeWalt DCF887N | Brushless | 205Nm | 3 | ~1.1kg | £80 | Best overall value. Forum favourite. |
| Makita DTD153Z | Brushless | 170Nm | 3 | 1.5kg | £115-139 | Strong mid-range for Makita users |
| Milwaukee M18 FID3-0 | Brushless | Varies by mode | Multiple | ~1.1kg | £100 | Latest gen, compact, M18 platform |
| Makita DTD172Z | Brushless | 180Nm | 4 | 1.1kg | £220 | Flagship. Precision mode. Pro-level. |
The twin pack question
If you don't already own a combi drill on the same battery platform, buy a twin pack. A combi drill plus impact driver kit with two batteries and a charger is almost always cheaper than buying both tools and batteries separately.
The DeWalt DCK2060M2T with two 4.0Ah batteries: £200 from Screwfix (spring sale price, normally £250). This gets you a brushless combi drill, a brushless impact driver (the DCF887), two decent batteries, and a charger. Buying both tools and batteries separately runs well over £300 once you add charger and two 4.0Ah cells. The twin pack saves you a meaningful chunk and comes in a case.
Other options: the Makita DLX2414SJ twin pack at £175 with 2x3.0Ah batteries, or the Milwaukee M18 BPP2C at £210 with 2x5.0Ah batteries from Toolstation.
Batteries are not cross-compatible between brands. The single most important purchasing decision isn't which impact driver to buy. It's which battery platform to commit to, because every cordless tool you buy afterwards needs to match. Pick one system (DeWalt XR, Makita LXT, Milwaukee M18, Ryobi ONE+) and stick with it.
Alternatives
A combi drill can drive screws. Every combi drill has a screwdriving mode. For small screws (under 50mm), cabinet hinges, and anything requiring delicate torque control, a combi drill with its adjustable clutch is actually the better tool. The clutch prevents overtorquing, which an impact driver can't do.
If you're doing light DIY (hanging shelves, assembling furniture, the occasional decking repair), a combi drill alone covers both drilling and driving. You don't strictly need an impact driver until you're regularly driving long screws, working with coach bolts, or doing sustained screwdriving sessions where wrist fatigue becomes a factor.
But once you've used an impact driver for a decking project or a kitchen fit, going back to a combi drill for heavy driving feels like punishment. The common community sentiment: "The impact driver is one of those tools that you wish you'd bought sooner."
Noise and hearing protection
This is the safety point that no other consumer guide mentions. Standard impact drivers produce 97-105 dB(A) under load. That's loud. For context, the UK Control of Noise at Work Regulations 2005 set the upper exposure action value at 85 dB(A), the level at which employers must provide hearing protection. At 100 dB(A), safe exposure without protection drops to roughly 15 minutes.
For short bursts (driving a handful of screws), the risk to your hearing is low. But if you're doing extended sessions like boarding a loft, building a deck, or fitting a kitchen, wear ear defenders or foam earplugs. Impact drivers are significantly louder than combi drills, and the sharp percussive noise is more damaging than continuous sound at the same level.
Hydraulic (oil-pulse) impact drivers are quieter at 87-94 dB(A), but they cost substantially more and are primarily trade tools. For homeowners, a £3 pack of foam earplugs solves the problem.
Where you'll need this
- Kitchen installation - driving heavy-duty fixings for wall unit support rails, worktop connecting bolts, and long screws for cabinet brackets
Impact drivers also appear during structure work (fixing timber connectors, joist hangers, structural brackets), first fix (running long screws into stud wall framing, fixing noggins), and at any stage involving sustained screwdriving into timber. The tool is not project-specific; once you own one, you'll reach for it on every job that involves more than a few screws.