Reciprocating Saws: The Demolition Tool Every Strip-Out Needs, and How to Use One Safely

You've hired a skip, bought a wrecking bar, and you're standing in the old kitchen wondering how to get the carcasses off the wall, cut through the timber battens behind the plasterboard, and remove the copper pipes that run to nowhere useful. You could hacksaw each pipe individually. You could try levering the timber out with a crowbar. Or you could pick up a reciprocating saw and cut through the lot in an afternoon. The wrong approach here costs you a full weekend of manual labour and a set of blistered hands. The right tool turns a dreaded job into a satisfying one.

What it is and when you need one

A reciprocating saw (also called a recip saw or sabre saw) is a handheld power tool with a blade that moves rapidly back and forth in a straight line. Think of a powered hacksaw that you hold like a drill. The blade sticks out from the front of the tool and the motor drives it in short, fast strokes, typically 2,800 to 3,000 strokes per minute (SPM).

That back-and-forth action is what makes it different from every other saw you'll encounter on a building site. A circular saw spins a disc for straight cuts. A jigsaw moves a thin blade up and down for curves. A reciprocating saw's motion is aggressive, fast, and designed for one thing: getting through material quickly when the finish doesn't matter.

It's the demolition saw. The strip-out saw. The "cut that pipe flush to the wall" saw. If you're ripping out an old kitchen, tearing out stud walls, cutting copper pipes that are in the way, or removing timber with screws and nails still embedded in it, this is the tool. It cuts timber, metal, plasterboard, PVC pipe, and mixed materials with nails through them. Swap the blade and it'll cut something different.

Where it falls short: precision. The blade wobbles, the cuts are rough, and there's no guide or fence. If you need a straight edge, use a circular saw. If you need a curve in a worktop, use a jigsaw. If you need a flush cut against a flat surface in a tight spot, an oscillating multi-tool is better. The reciprocating saw is for destruction, not creation.

Types and variants

Corded vs cordless

Corded models plug into 230V mains and deliver consistent power. They're cheaper, lighter (no battery pack), and the motor doesn't fade as the charge drops. The cable is the only real drawback, and on a demolition job where you're working in one room, it's rarely a problem.

Cordless models run on 18V lithium-ion batteries. No cable to manage, which is genuinely useful when you're working overhead, cutting joists in a loft space, or moving constantly around a room pulling things apart. But you're paying for the convenience: body-only cordless saws cost £60-£150, and that's before batteries.

If you already own batteries from another cordless tool, buying a body-only saw on the same platform is the obvious move. You avoid the cable and you don't pay for batteries twice.

Specs that matter

Three numbers define how a reciprocating saw performs. Ignore everything else on the spec sheet.

Stroke length is the distance the blade travels on each back-and-forth cycle, measured in millimetres. Across the market this ranges from 22mm to 32mm. Longer stroke means more material removed per cycle, which means faster cuts in wood. The Makita DJR186Z has a 32mm stroke. The Milwaukee M18 BSX has 28.6mm. The Ryobi ONE+ compact has 22mm, which is noticeably slower in thick timber.

Strokes per minute (SPM) is the speed of the blade. Most saws deliver 2,800 to 3,100 SPM at full throttle. Variable speed control (a trigger you can squeeze gently for slow or fully for fast) is essential. Slow speed for metal. Full speed for wood.

Orbital action is the feature that confuses people. Some saws let you toggle an orbital setting (usually 0 to 3). What this does: instead of moving the blade in a pure straight line, it adds a slight elliptical motion, swinging the blade forward into the material on the cutting stroke and back away on the return. Higher settings remove material faster in wood. Setting 0 (off) is for metal, thin materials, and any cut where control matters. You don't need orbital action for a one-off strip-out, but if the saw you're considering has it, it's a bonus.

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How to use it properly

Reciprocating saws are simpler to operate than a circular saw but they kick and vibrate hard. Technique is the difference between controlled demolition and a dangerous mess.

The shoe is your anchor

The flat metal plate at the base of the blade (called the shoe, foot, or sole plate) is the most important part of the saw for control. Press it firmly against the surface you're cutting. It acts as a pivot point, stopping the saw from bouncing and juddering. Every experienced user in every forum thread says the same thing: keep the shoe against the material at all times. The moment you lift it away, the saw bucks and the blade chatters.

On most saws the shoe is adjustable. Slide it forward as the blade wears down so you're always using fresh teeth. Some people never adjust their shoe and wonder why the saw gets slower over time.

Grip and stance

Two hands on the saw. Always. One on the trigger grip, one on the front housing. The saw vibrates hard (the Makita DJR186Z measures 13 m/s^2 vibration when cutting boards), and a one-handed grip at full speed is a recipe for losing control.

Stand to the side, not directly behind the cut. Plant your feet. Brace for the vibration. If the blade binds in the material, the saw will kick back towards you. Being offset keeps you clear.

Cutting technique by material

Timber (structural studs, battens, joists): Full speed, coarse wood blade (6-10 TPI). Let the shoe rest against the timber. Push gently. The blade does the work. Forcing it generates heat and wears the blade faster.

Timber with nails and screws embedded: This is the classic demolition scenario. Use a bi-metal demolition blade or a TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blade. Standard wood blades hit a nail and the teeth shatter. A demolition blade cuts through both materials without stopping. Use medium speed to give the blade time to work through the metal.

Copper pipe: Slow speed, fine-tooth metal blade (14-18 TPI). Too fast and the blade chatters across the surface instead of cutting. Support the pipe if possible. For pipes under 22mm, a pipe cutter or junior hacksaw is often quicker and cleaner.

PVC waste pipe: Medium speed, standard wood blade works fine. PVC is soft.

Plasterboard: Any blade. Full speed. It's like cutting butter. The only reason to use a recip saw on plasterboard is when it's nailed to studs and you're removing both together. For cutting plasterboard alone, a Stanley knife is faster.

Plunge cuts

A reciprocating saw can plunge-cut into a flat surface (plasterboard, timber sheeting) without needing a starter hole. Press the shoe against the surface at an angle so only the tip of the blade contacts the material. Start the saw at low speed, let the tip cut into the surface, then slowly pivot the saw flat until the blade is fully engaged. This technique takes practice. Keep a firm grip because the blade will want to walk across the surface before it bites.

How to check it's working properly

Reciprocating saws are simple tools. Three checks before each use.

Blade clamp. Insert a blade and pull on it firmly. It should be locked solid with zero movement in the clamp. A blade that's loose will vibrate out during cutting and become a projectile. If the tool-free clamp feels weak or doesn't grip properly, the clamp mechanism is worn. Replace it or get the saw serviced.

Shoe condition. Check the shoe isn't bent or cracked. A damaged shoe won't sit flat against the workpiece, which means less control and more vibration. On budget saws the shoe is stamped metal and can bend if you drop the saw.

Trigger and variable speed. Squeeze the trigger gently. The blade should start slowly and ramp up as you squeeze further. If it jumps straight to full speed with no variable control, the speed circuit has failed. Cutting metal at full speed is dangerous and will destroy blades instantly. Variable speed isn't a luxury on a reciprocating saw; it's how you switch between materials.

Choosing the right blade

The blade matters more than the saw. That statement appears in eight out of nine forum threads reviewed on this topic. A good blade in a cheap saw outperforms a bad blade in an expensive one.

Reciprocating saw blades use a universal shank fitting. Any blade fits any saw. This makes it simple: buy blades based on the material you're cutting, not the brand of your saw.

TPI means teeth per inch. Fewer teeth (6-10 TPI) = faster, rougher cuts in wood. More teeth (14-18 TPI) = slower, cleaner cuts in metal. A 10 TPI bi-metal demolition blade is the all-rounder for a kitchen strip-out. Buy a 5-pack. You'll use two or three blades across a full strip-out depending on how much metal you hit.

£4-15 buys a 5-pack of basic demolition blades. Budget blades are adequate for a one-off strip-out. If you're cutting through lots of nail-embedded timber or metal conduit, step up to Bosch or Milwaukee branded blades. They last noticeably longer.

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What to buy

Three tiers. All prices from UK retailers as of April 2026.

Budget: £35-70 (corded)

Titan TTB881RSP 850W corded at Screwfix. The benchmark budget reciprocating saw. 850W motor, 25mm stroke, 0-3,000 SPM, variable speed, 2.17 kg. Cuts up to 100mm in wood and 12mm in steel. Comes with one wood blade and one metal blade. 4.7 stars from 155 reviews. Two-year guarantee. For a single kitchen strip-out, this is all you need.

ROKTOR 850W corded at Toolstation. Near-identical spec to the Titan. Pick whichever is closer to collect.

Makita M4501 1010W corded at Screwfix. Noticeably more powerful than the budget entries, with better vibration damping. Worth the step up if you plan to use it across an entire renovation, not just one strip-out.

Mid-range: cordless body-only

This tier is for people who already own 18V batteries. Body-only means no batteries or charger included.

Makita DJR186Z 18V body-only at Screwfix. The forum favourite. 32mm stroke (the longest in this price range), 0-2,800 SPM, 255mm wood / 130mm steel pipe cutting capacity, XPT dust and water resistance. 3.5 kg. Multiple forum users describe it as the go-to saw for "ripping out old kitchens." The vibration is lower than cheaper cordless options, which matters on a long strip-out day.

Milwaukee M18 BSX-0 18V body-only at Screwfix. 28.6mm stroke, 3,000 SPM, 300mm wood / 150mm metal pipe capacity, FIXTEC keyless blade change, REDLINK overload protection. Slightly more aggressive than the Makita. Praised by trade users for durability.

Erbauer ERI1089RSP 18V brushless body-only at Screwfix. Screwfix own-brand with a brushless motor. Described in forum threads as "a beast." Good value if you're already in the Erbauer battery family, though that family is smaller than Makita, DeWalt, or Milwaukee.

Professional: cordless brushless body-only

Overkill for a single strip-out. These make sense for serial renovators or anyone doing heavy demolition work across multiple projects.

DeWalt DCS367N-XJ 18V brushless compact body-only at Screwfix. Compact design that fits into tighter spaces than full-size models.

Milwaukee M18 FHZ-0 FUEL Hackzall body-only at Screwfix. One-handed compact design for pipe cutting and access work. The "Hackzall" name means it's designed for one-handed use, smaller and lighter than a standard reciprocating saw.

Milwaukee M18ONEFSZ-0X ONE-KEY body-only. Bluetooth tool tracking and configurable speed/power profiles via a phone app. Trade-oriented.

DeWalt DCS389 54V XR FlexVolt body-only at Toolstation. The most powerful cordless reciprocating saw available. 54V battery system for corded-equivalent power. Exclusively for heavy structural demolition.

Hire vs buy

Hiring a reciprocating saw costs around ~£72/day from HSS. Blades not included. A budget corded saw costs £35-70 and you keep it. Even for a single-day job, buying is cheaper than hiring. Hire only makes sense if you specifically need a high-power industrial model you'd never use again.

Alternatives

A reciprocating saw isn't always the right tool. Four alternatives cover the gaps.

Oscillating multi-tool for precise, flush cuts in tight spaces. Where a recip saw smashes through material, an oscillating multi-tool nibbles it away with precision. Need to cut a pipe flush to a wall? Trim a door frame for flooring? Remove grout? The multi-tool handles all of that. It's slower and less powerful, but it works in spaces where a reciprocating saw can't physically fit. Many homeowners get more total use from a multi-tool across a project than from a recip saw.

Jigsaw for curved cuts and controlled work. A jigsaw makes cuts the reciprocating saw physically can't: circles for downlighters, curves in worktops, intricate shapes. It's also far more controllable for following a marked line. But it lacks the brute force for demolition.

Hacksaw (manual) for cutting individual metal pipes. For one or two copper pipe cuts, a junior hacksaw is quicker to grab, has no cable or battery to worry about, and gives a cleaner cut. The recip saw wins on volume. If you're removing ten pipes, the hacksaw is too slow.

Circular saw for straight cuts in timber and sheet materials. If you need clean, straight cuts rather than demolition, a circular saw is the right choice. A reciprocating saw produces rough, wavy edges that are useless for joinery or visible work.

Where you'll need this

• Skip hire and site setup - cutting through old timber, pipework, and mixed materials during demolition and strip-out
• Walls and blockwork - cutting through existing timber studs when opening up between old and new structure
• Roof structure - trimming timber in place where a circular saw can't reach
• First fix plumbing - cutting old copper and PVC pipes back to connection points

The strip-out is where this tool earns its money. The other tasks are secondary uses where it steps in because a different saw can't reach. On any extension or renovation project, you'll reach for it first when destruction needs to happen, then put it away for the precision tools.

Safety

Reciprocating saws vibrate hard and cut through almost anything, including cables, pipes, and fingers. Respect the tool.

Hearing protection. Reciprocating saws produce 84-95 dB depending on the model and material. Wear ear defenders for any sustained cutting.

Safety glasses. Mandatory. The saw throws debris forward and upward. Wood splinters, metal shards, plaster dust. A fragment in your eye stops the project.

Dust mask (FFP2 minimum). Demolition generates enormous amounts of dust. Plaster dust, wood dust, concrete dust. Even without an asbestos risk, prolonged inhalation of construction dust causes respiratory disease. Wear the mask for every session, not just when you can see the dust cloud.

Gloves. Unlike a circular saw (where gloves are dangerous because loose material can catch the spinning blade), gloves are appropriate with a reciprocating saw. The blade is enclosed in the cut. Gloves protect your hands from sharp edges on cut metal, splintered timber, and the significant vibration.

Blade changes. Wait for the blade to stop fully before changing it. On cordless saws, remove the battery. On corded saws, unplug from the mains. Don't trust the trigger lock alone. The blade is hot after cutting. Let it cool for a minute, or wear gloves.